I went back for dinner at the same quan an and ordered banh canh instead of bun rieu. This time, the couple were interested in my "story" and were asking questions about my work, my single status, my accommodations, life in the States, in general. Tentatively, they probed and I offered answers that were vague but specific, if that makes any sense. Suffice it to say, my answers pleased them, or at least appeased their curiosity, and they were friendlier than before.

The woman (neighbors refer to her as Co Ba) invited me to sit across from her at the table and, after making my bowl of banh canh, proceeded to fan me with the tattered, purple paper fan sitting in the chopsticks container. At this point, we had barely exchanged any words, just a few pleasantries, but there she was, fanning me with this silly paper fan. Nonchalantly, always facing out towards the main street as if she couldn't, wouldn't, bother with a strange (not for long?) patron. But then they started talking to me, without my asking anything in return, and I joined the conversation. They asked about where I normally eat and how long I'll be staying in the country.

Usually, by this time in conversation with others, my backhairs are raised, and cautionary flags are going up everywhere, and my Vietnamese begins to stutter. But for some reason, this couple (the thought did cross my mind that they were CB lookouts) didn't threaten me in any way. I'm normally on guard, to try to be, but the truth is, Co Ba was sitting there fanning me b/c sweat was dripping down my face. Then she touched my bowl and asked if it was hot enough--normally a very casual gesture--but for total strangers, that question and action seemed to bridge something between us. I wasn't quite sure what to make of it, but I didn't pick up any sense of invasiveness or pushiness from her demeanor. They seemed--could it be?--concerned that I was eating out a lot, and that I didn't have home cooked meals, and briefly mentioned that there are other affordable places to eat (com binh dan).

Of course, the meal tonight included complimentary iced tea (courtesy of the husband while the wife was making my goi cuon) and parted from me not 8000 vnd but 6000 vnd. Not so bad. On my way out, she invited me back (why not? I was bringing them business!). Maybe tomorrow will bring something different.